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Review of my installation
Hello all, happy automation.
So I'm finalizing my home automation set up and I figured I should share my experience, get your opinons, have some of you discover some cool stuff maybe. and please do shoot any questions you have. Before we get there, I want to thank YOU, the community for every and any piece of advice I’ve received, it's been easy sometimes and a hassle dole other times, to do it all on my own for now 2 months. sometimes I found myself messaging authors of this or that tweak and they all answered gladly. So huge thanks to all the community. Pressing on:
My flat is a 60sqm: 4 rooms + 1 hall. Also, I live alone, the following applies to my lifestyle. And finally, I'm essentially Apple equipped.
- From the entrance door, you enter the hall
- left: the toilet and the bathroom (separated : so 2 rooms)
- right: the kitchen
- forward, the living + bed area (so 1 room)
Non smart stuff I have:
- Philips TV ambilight
- 1 lamp stand
- 1 lamp stand that can can take 3 bulbs simultaneously like this
- 1 bulb socket in the hall, 1 in the kitchen, 1 in the living area, 1 in the bed area (Total 4)
- PlayStation 4
- Enough electric sockets to set a xmas tree on fire…
Apple HomeKit stuff I initially had:
- HomePods x2 (serve as hubs, “hey Siri”)
- Apple TV 4K (serves as hub)
- iPad Air 2 (serves as hub, “hey Siri” when plugged, has the Home App)
- iPhone X (“Hey Siri”, home App)
- Apple Watch (“Hey Siri”, home App)
- AirPods V2 (“Hey Siri”)
- MacBook Pro (“Hey Siri”, home App)
IoT / smart stuff I later bought:
- 3 yeelight color bulbs V2 (Initially non home kit comaptible til 2 weeks ago. They still require the yeelight app to work with Homekit)
- 1 color bulb from koogeek (HomeKit compatible)
- 1 Yeelight bed lamp V2 (HomeKit compatible)
- Aqara Magic Cube (not HomeKit compatible)
- Philips TV ambilight (listing it here again because it is smart capable with its API but not HomeKit compatible and also, let down by Philips despite released in 2018)
- Playstation 4 Pro (you'll see below: it's possible to control it)
- 2 Vibration sensors
- 3 motion detectors (light/motion sensors)
- Alarms and cameras (which I won't detail here for obvious reasons)
Apart from the Koogeek bulb and the yeelight bed lamp, everything else was not compatible with Apple's Homekit. I'm going to cover the part where I had to do without the compatibility.
PHASE ONE: Noob on budget vs. Homebridge>HomeKit.
To do so, I chose Homebridge. It needs a dedicated, always on, server. I bought
- 1 Raspberry Pie 3 pack (includes: an outer shell, its energy cable, 16go SD card for the OS
- 1 20cm ethernet cable (Raspberry <-> router, best network performances are wired)
If you decide to do the same, the easiest way to install homebridge on the raspberry is with a USB keyboard, USB mouse and HDMI screen. I didn’t have these, So I went the "headless" way with little to zero knowledge of terminal and coding or anything but hey. adventure times! and well, you can always flash the card again and start over.
From there, just follow the official tutorial and you'll get Homebridge running in a jiffy. Since I had yeelight bulbs, I then installed Homebridge-yeelight to Homebridge. Then, via the yeelight app on my iphone, I added the bulbs to it but there’s a specific step: you need to activate LAN network for each bulbs. (Again, bulbs V2 are compatible as of today, LAN or Homebridge altogether are no longer necessary. But for V1 it is still true).
I restarted Homebridge. Success! It detected the bulbs and added them to the Home app. At which point, I wondered that if there's an electricity shortage, will my Homebridge start again or will I have to start it myself? This is the part where you want to have Homebridge self start on boot.
So now, successfully using my bulbs: created the scene "TV" so I go like "hey Siri, I'm watching TV" and it turns the bulbs dark purple! Dope! (also, the bulbs that go into a 3-in-1 lamp, I grouped them as one “Lamp” in Home app for convenience). But you can still control them separately in automation and scenes. It's useful to group for example if you have 3 ceiling lamps in your living, or a bed lamp on both sides of your bed. see more here.
I realised my Apple TV and my TV had CEC protocol meaning that if I one is switched on, it switches the other on as well. I also made the Apple TV learn the TV's remote so I can use only one. As you can see, I really want to design for the simplest of configuration. Also, I don’t watch/have TV channels, just the Apple TV like Netflix and all..
But this is where I reached the limits of a hybrid system:
- Given the current state of HomeKit, the yeelight app (or koogeek or any manufacturer) are so much more powerful. Through them, you can set up color transitions i.e. candle light, birthday party, or your own. the iOS home app has only the basics. light, intensity, and a color spectrum. (But to compensate for it, you can use Apple iOS shortcuts -for -apps and set up a specific vocal command like “hey Siri, happy birthday”, which will load the command from yeelight, not HomeKit. In other words: using Siri to do things HomeKit can't. Bummer: you must have each manufacturer's app, which I hate but that's just me.
- Currently, you can’t link the TV scene to the Apple TV state. Meaning turning the Apple TV on will turn on the TV but can't activate the TV scene. And turning it off won’t … you get the picture. But there’s an alternative:
- The shortcut won’t work with iOS13 and will probably be deprecated since the feature will be natively supported the next OS generations coming out next September 10th.
- It doesn’t let you turn off the Apple TV. Only turn on.
- under iOS13, you'll be able to turn on and off the Apple TV
Extra cool stuff:
- I set up scenes so that lights in the living would turn red slowly towards midnight, at which they shut out completely. given HomeKit limitations, I had to create scenes that will go successively:
- From sunset minus 1h (not so much daylight here in my flat) to 8.30pm Scene "Sunset"
- From 8:30pm to 9:45pm "Evening"
- ... to "Late evening” to … you get the idea
- And if anything, interrupted it (i.e. TV scene), I can always say ”Hey Siri, it's late" or "it's late night". Pretty dope. The point of that automation was to limit blue light, and encourage me to go to sleep early.
- I jailbroke my iPhone so that when it connects to my wifi and if it’s playing music, it airplays to my HomePod pair. In terms of experience, it equals to “when I arrive home, airplay to the living room”. Works with music, spotify, podcasts, anything. It's far better than having to tap on the HomePod with your iPhone like in iOS13, especially if your HomePod is far away next to your TV.
That leads us to
PHASE 2: LESS TALKING, MORE AUTOMATION
I realised I was going around my place, constantly talking to my watch or iPhone or iPad or AirPods or HomePods to tell my system to turn on/off lights, and stuff. It bothered me so much. Even after a year, I find voice interfaces pretty limited, until we reach something like in "Her" or "Black Mirror". Basically a home assistant that can pass the Turing test. (And yes, I can cite plenty more, like TAU, Detroit: Become human, Mallory Archer in the last season, etc etc.)
A solution: Sensors !
At first, I wanted to do with what I had: My macbook unlocks without a password: it detects if my watch is close by and on my wrist (unlocked + heartbeat). In a sense, you could say my initial sensors were my wifi, iPhone’s gps, and bluetooth. Sadly: there are no known software or technological solution reliable enough, even within the realm of jailbreak.
The Home App offers fairly basic but cool things like "when I arrive home" automations. So I had that covered. In addition, some advanced Shortcuts help do more but they are so specific that few of us benefit from them. So I bought a light/presence detector from Aqara (FYI: Mi, Aqara, Yeelight are the same manufacturer).
Most of their devices aren't HomeKit compatible, use a different protocole called ZigBee and require a Hub generally sold under the same brand. The hub discovers and connects them to your Homekit set up. So you either buy said hub or a substitute. I chose a substitute out of certain concerns:
- Chinese servers where Apple, Amazon, facebook etc have their data stored were hacked into last year. Also, people who purchased Samsung TV equipped with camera, were filmed and listened to by hackers. it weighed in the purchasing decision.
- Price. Always the same thing: the manufacturer’s option allegedly works great while your friendly neighbour hacker’s alternative requires a bit of work but is half the price
- Delivery: coming a long way from Asia, no tracking, no refund, etc…
So I chose to go with said alternative: USB thumb Conbee II. It is equipped with the hardware necessary to sniff out said Zigbee only device (sparing A LOT OF details here). When the thumb was configured, I plugged it into the Raspberry and from there, it creates a web interface (safari, chrome, etc) accessible from any device on your network, from where you can add sensors.
In homebridge, you must perform some tasks so that Homebridge has access to the usb via terminal. Then install Homebridg-hue. It will get the data from the Conbee to Homebridge and Homebridge injects them into home kit. Restart both and Et Voila! My AQARA sensor appears in home kit! Pretty dope!
I put it up the kitchen and set up a rule: #1 if it detects movements at night, it turns on the light. At first, it felt like in the movies, things would lit up when you show up, awesome. But I realise when I'm out of the room, the light is still on. So I added another rule: #2 when it stops detecting movement, it turns off the light. But the light would still be on for 3min (the sensor refreshes every 180sec, can’t change that). So I deleted #2 and created #3 if it detects movements at night, it turns off the light after 3min. But it didn’t match how long I stayed in that room in average. Sooo I bought 1 more sensor to set up in the hallway, created rule #4: If hallway sensor is triggered, turn off the light in the kitchen. Also #5: if it’s night, turn on the hallway light. DOPE!
But in order to reach the kitchen, I go through the hall, triggering the sensor there and if I get out before 3min, since the it's already triggered, it doesn’t turn off the kitchen… Sooooooooo I recently bought another one for the living room. Which when triggered will turn off the the hall and the kitchen.
This is the best I can achieve: since I spend most of my time in the living, then it will ultimately turn off the lights. Still 3min delay (minus the time spent elsewhere) but, meh. I had a look into alternatives: expensive and not common, i.e. laser technology that can tell if you’re going in or out of a room.
To close that chapter, I chose to stick with my solution above.
PHASE 3 — THE COOL STUFF
The playstation 4
It’s possible to turn on your playstation 4 via home kit / Homebridge. The playstation has CEC too. As opposed to the Apple TV, you can link the playstation status to a scene. So shortly put: “Hey Siri, turn on the playstation”. It will turn the device, which will turn the TV on and set the playstation “ambiance” for the light. DOOOOOPE. “Hey Siri, turn off the playstation”, playstation and TV off, and if it’s night, turn on the “evening” lights. (create one rule for the day, one for the night). Dope!
That was the hardest and I’m not yet done with it. So I have a Philips Ambilight 3 sides. To give you the full picture: they vary from one model to the next:
- They may have 3 ambilight sides or 2
- Android TV or not
- API 6.x or not
- May be or not compatible with your Philips Hue Bridge. If yes, it can work together with your other Philips Hue bulbs
- The recent Philips TV may not have any ambilight but you can buy ambilight stripes to stick behind the TV and obtain the same effect via a Hue bridge.
Anyway, I had the support of many users to have it work. Today, in my home kit I can see:
- TV Switch off/on: as of now, I can only switch the TV on, the off part is left to be done. I talked with the dev who sent me the instructions but it’s fairly complicated. Work in progress.
- TV Volume slider: it’s disguised as a luminosity slider and it’s a 1:4 ratio: 100% lux equals 25 decibel. Needs adjustments
- TV Ambilight Switch off/on: does what it says
- TV Next input source: changes to the next source, dope to switch from one HDMI to the next.
- TV Previous Input source.
I let you imagine how much fun it is. Let me give you a bit of reality check though:
- The playstation status acts sporadically: if you have a passcode or must select a user, it will not return a success signal to your system in time, Siri will speak of failure to complete the request… but it’s just a 5secs delay.
- The CEC tech is different from one tv to the next so some will turn on, some will turn off or not. Some will not switch to the right HDMI, therefore next/previous source switches are pretty convenient. Which leads me to the last part:
The Aqara Magic Cube
I bought that little thing. It’s Aqara so it’s just like the sensors: must be sniffed out by your Conbee II first. I named it HyperCube. I might change to Tesseract haha. sci fi geek nerd here
In the home app: you'll see a new type of device: a programmable sensor. You can only program it from that screen, not from automation or scenes.
Initially, the Aqara instructions speaks of 6 interactions:
- Rotate 90 vertically
- Rotate 180 vertically
- Push/slide forward
- Spin horizontally (disregard degrees)
- Double tap the cube on the table
- 1 for each of the cube’s face, for each:
- Single press: corresponds to 90° rotation
- Double press: corresponds to double tap
- Long press: corresponds to the push/slide on the table where the cube is
- 1 for the spin clockwise
- Spin a little
- Spin a lot
- 3rd thing but I haven’t discovered it
- 1 for spin counter clockwise
- Spin a little
- Spin a lot
- 3rd thing but I haven’t discovered it
- 1 for Shake
- 2 actions: one is shake, the other one I haven’t discovered it
Imagine all the combinations. I don’t even have enough appliances for that many interactions. I’m using it to activate lights, scenes around my flat. Also, I finally have a proper way to turn off the lights in the kitchen and hallway and switch from one HDMI to the next. And stuff. Let’s just say, I interact a LOT less with my voice. It’s really what I wanted.
I find my self asking Siri to turn on the playstation, the TV turns on, the lights go dark blue and if the TV was on the Apple TV HDMI, I just spin the cube a little to the right. If I'm done, I shake it, turning it all off and if it's night, it'll turn the evening lights on. d......ope ! wanna watch Netflix? spin it to the left.
They are from Aqara so same story Deconz>homebridge>homekit. Even more Fun.
It’s a little rectangle that you put onto a surface, wall, door, bed, else and is triggered by vibration from said surface. There’s the classic case of sticking it onto your washing machine: rule: when it no longer detects motion, meaning the machine is done, send notification. more examples
You can also set one on your entrance door so it turns on the hall light. But I live in a building and I wonder: if a floor neighbour slams their door, put up the music bass loud enough.. Also, it can’t tell wether you’re going in or out. And I already had the light sensors so…
So I put my second one at one corner of the bed frame where I usually get onto the bed: rule is: if I enter my bed from 10pm to 1am, trigger the bed lamp in red (no blue light) for 1 minute (because I have the intent to sleep), activate alarms and turn off everything else TV, bulbs. The sensor is far enough to not be triggered by movement in my sleep. So that is so dope as well.
Other example of vibration sensors use: to put them on the interior side of drawers you don’t want your children to open. Mini bars, knives, drugs, safes etc..
IN THE FUTURE:
- 1 smart socket for my kitchen boiler: I’ll leave it on with some adhesive (hahah I know). Rule: between 6am to 12pm if the bed sensor is triggered, meaning I’m leaving the bed, water boils for 1min, hot but not too much for tea.
- 1 smart socket for the bed and temperature sensor: I was offered an electric bed sheet that warms up, for cold nights. Rule is: when if it’s cold and from 11pm to 0am, warm up the bed”.
- Kids night lights with infrared: They detect movement at close range 30cm or so and turn on a gentle light. My use would be to put them inside drawers, kitchen cabinets, etc: when I open one, it lits up inside. Doesn't need home kit or anything, works as a stand alone.
So here you go, this is me. Apart from alarms and cameras.
I’ll just like to add the follwing:
Anything electronic can be hacked into. We are growing into a world where amounts of data produced and collected go WAY beyond the sum of information contain in all books in the history of mankind, that’s how much data there is to tap into. That calls for security: my advice, get a second router and set up a secured local network and only this one would connect to the internet. Also, I’m happy Apple takes steps to secure homekit. It’s always a mouse and cat game but there’s that still.
Also, you may want to install Homebridge-config-ui to use less terminal and more of an actual interface
I hope I was clear enough. I took out specifications because you can always ask the questions!
Happy automation !
Jungle TestNet. Basics
submitted by atticlab_it to EOSDev
Auto installationTo create a personal auto installer script, register a new manufacturer account at http://jungle.cryptolions.io/#register. Pin is the password for updating information about your node.
After registration, you will be able to download the install script install Jungle-your_producer_account_name.sh.
chmod u + x installJungle-your_producer_account_name.sh
Before running the installation script,we recommend to check the parameters in the file install Jungle-your_producer_account_name.sh. By default, the EOS_SOURCE_DIR parameter is not specified, in this case the script will automatically download the EOS files from the https://github.com/eosio/eossource and compile into the eos-source directory. The parameter PRODUCER_PRIV_KEY — private key, which corresponds to the registered Producer Public Key, can be entered at the beginning or during the process or after installation. Running install Jungle-your_producer_account_name.sh will automatically create all the scripts and configuration files using the specified parameters and start the node.
During the installation you will be asked to enter a private key (if not this before). You can skip this step by pressing Enter and add the private key manually in config.ini and in your wallet (see below) and restart the node with the command
./start.sh — delete-all-blocks — genesis-json genesis.json
Information about the node can be found at the link http: // you_server: your_http_port / v1 / chain / get_info.
Install EOSgit clone https://github.com/eosio/eos — recursive cd eos git checkout v1.1.x git submodule update — init — recursive ./eosio_build.sh -s EOS
Configuring NodeCreate a folder where data will be stored:
Clone all files from the repository:
git clone https://github.com/CryptoLions/EOS-Jungle-Testnet.git ./
chmod +x ./*.sh
chmod +x ./Wallet/*.sh
It is mandatory to check all specified paths in files cleos.sh, start.sh, stop.sh, config.ini, Wallet/start_wallet.sh, Wallet/stop_wallet.sh.
Create key pair using command:
./cleos.sh create key
Register account by link http://jungle.cryptolions.io/#account using previosly generated Public Key.
Change parameters in config.ini:
Change parameters http-server-address and p2p-listen-endpoint
producer-name = your_producer_account_name
replace list of p2p-peer-addresses on the list which is presented by link: http://jungle.cryptolions.io/#p2p
Check it out: config.ini chain-state-db-size-mb = 8192, it can not be more than you RAM is
To disable additional checking (nodes without a domain), add to the file
config.ini this parameter:
http-validate-host = false
List of plugins:
plugin = eosio::producer_plugin
plugin = eosio::chain_plugin
plugin = eosio::chain_api_plugin
plugin = eosio::history_plugin
plugin = eosio::history_api_plugin
plugin = eosio::http_plugin
plugin = eosio::net_plugin
plugin = eosio::net_api_plugin
Before starting, change the limits for your system, add to start.sh:
ulimit -n 65535
ulimit -s 64000
./start.sh — delete-all-blocks — genesis-json genesis.json
If the node does not synchronize, do the following:
Register producerCreate a wallet
./cleos.sh wallet create -n your_wallet_name
Unlock your wallet
./cleos.sh wallet unlock -n your_wallet_name — password your_wallet_password
Import the generated key pair that appears in the config.ini in the wallet
./cleos.sh wallet import -n your_wallet_name — private-key your_producer_private_key
./cleos.sh system regproducer your_producer_account_name your_producer_public_key your_producer_url your_producer_location
Update EOS sourceYou should stop node before updating
Go to directory where EOSIO is located
cd eos git pull git checkout v1.1.x git submodule update — init — recursive ./eosio_build.sh -s EOS
Go to directory with Jungle Testnet and launch node again
To have an opportunity do cleos commands in Jungle Testnet, you just need to setup EOS software (Install EOS).
/home/eos/build/programs/cleos/cleos — url http://[node_host]:[node_port] — wallet-url http://[wallet_host]:[wallet_port] get account account_name
where http://[node_host]:[node_port] is the address of connected to Jungle Testnet node